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Chapter V
Chapter V
Cape Horn - A Visit
Wednesday, Nov. 5th. - The weather was fine during the previous night,
and we had a clear view of the Magellan Clouds, and of the Southern Cross. The
Magellan Clouds consist of three small nebulae in the southern part of the
heavens, - two bright, like the Milky Way, and one dark. These are first seen,
just above the horizon, soon after crossing the southern tropic. When off Cape
Horn, they are nearly over head. The cross is composed of four stars in that
form, and is said to be the brightest constellation in the heavens.
During the first part of this day (Wednesday) the wind was light, but
after noon it came on fresh, and we furled the royals. We still kept the
studding-sails out, and the captain said he should go around with them, if he
could. Just before eight o`clock (then about sundown, in that latitude) the
cry of "All hands ahoy!" was sounded down the fore scuttle and the after
hatchway, and hurrying upon deck, we found a large black cloud rolling on
toward us from the southwest, and blackening the whole heavens. "Here comes
Cape Horn!" said the chief mate; and we had hardly time to haul down and clew
up, before it was upon us. In a few moments, a heavier sea was raised than I
had ever seen before, and as it was directly ahead, the little brig, which was
no better than a bathing machine, plunged into it, and all the forward part of
her was under water; the sea pouring in through the bow-ports and hawse-hole
and over the knightheads, threatening to wash everything overboard. In the lee
scuppers it was up to a man`s waist. We sprang aloft and double reefed the
topsails, and furled all the other sails, and made all snug. But this would
not do; the brig was laboring and straining against the head sea, and the gale
was growing worse and worse. At the same time sleet and hail were driving with
all fury against us. We clewed down, and hauled out the reef- tackles again,
and close-reefed the fore-topsail, and furled the main, and hove her to on the
starboard tack. Here was an end to our fine prospects. We made up our minds to
head winds and cold weather; sent down the royal yards, and unrove the gear;
but all the rest of the top hamper remained aloft, even to the sky-sail masts
and studding-sail booms.
Throughout the night it stormed violently - rain, hail, snow, and sleet
beating upon the vessel - the wind continuing ahead, and the sea running high.
At day-break (about three, A.M.) the deck was covered with snow. The captain
sent up the steward with a glass of grog to each of the watch; and all the
time that we were off the Cape, grog was given to the morning watch, and to
all hands whenever we reefed topsails. The clouds cleared away at sunrise, and
the wind becoming more fair, we again made sail and stood nearly up to our
course.
Thursday, Nov. 6th. It continued more pleasant through the first part of
the day, but at night we had the same scene over again. This time, we did not
heave to, as on the night before, but endeavored to beat to windward under
close-reefed topsails, balance-reefed trysail, and fore-topmast staysail. This
night it was my turn to steer, or, as the sailors say, my trick at the helm,
for two hours. Inexperienced as I was, I made out to steer to the satisfaction
of the officer, and neither S___ nor myself gave up our tricks, all the time
that we were off the Cape. This was something to boast of, for it requires a
good deal of skill and watchfulness to steer a vessel close hauled, in a gale
of wind, against a heavy head sea. "Ease her when she pitches," is the word;
and a little carelessness in letting her ship a heavy sea, might sweep the
decks, or knock the masts out of her.
Friday, Nov. 7th. Towards morning the wind went down, and during the
whole forenoon we lay tossing about in a dead calm, and in the midst of a
thick fog. The calms here are unlike those in most parts of the world, for
there is always a high sea running, and the periods of calm are so short, that
it has no time to go down; and vessels, being under no command of sails or
rudder, lie like logs upon the water. We were obliged to steady the booms and
yards by guys and braces, and to lash everything well below. We now found our
top hamper of some use, for though it is liable to be carried away or sprung
by the sudden "bringing up" of a vessel when pitching in a chopping sea, yet
it is a great help in steadying a vessel when rolling in a long swell; giving
more slowness, ease, and regularity to the motion.
The calm of the morning reminds me of a scene which I forgot to describe
at the time of its occurrence, but which I remember from its being the first
time that I had heard the near breathing of whales. It was on the night that
we passed between the Falkland Islands and Staten Land. We had the watch from
twelve to four, and coming upon deck, found the little brig lying perfectly
still, surrounded by a thick fog, and the sea as smooth as though oil had been
poured upon it; yet now and then a long, low swell rolling under its surface,
slightly lifting the vessel, but without breaking the glassy smoothness of the
water. We were surrounded far and near by shoals of sluggish whales and
grampuses, which the fog prevented our seeing, rising slowly to the surface,
or perhaps lying out at length, heaving out those peculiar lazy, deep, and
long-drawn breathings which give such an impression of supineness and
strength. Some of the watch were asleep, and the others were perfectly still,
so that there was nothing to break the illusion, and I stood leaning over the
bulwarks, listening to the slow breathings of the mighty creatures - now one
breaking the water just alongside, whose black body I almost fancied that I
could see through the fog; and again another, which I could just hear in the
distance - until the low and regular swell seemed like the heaving of the
ocean`s mighty bosom to the sound of its heavy and long-drawn respirations.
Towards the evening of this day, (Friday, 7th,) the fog cleared off, and
we had every appearance of a cold blow; and soon after sundown it came on.
Again it was a clew up and haul down, reef and furl, until we had got her down
to close-reefed topsails, double-reefed trysail, and reefed forespenser. Snow,
hail, and sleet were driving upon us most of the night, and the sea breaking
over the bows and covering the forward part of the little vessel; but as she
would lay her course the captain refused to heave her to.
Saturday, Nov. 8th. This day commenced with calm and thick fog, and ended
with hail, snow, a violent wind, and close-reefed topsails.
Sunday, Nov. 9th. Today the sun rose clear, and continued so until twelve
o`clock, when the captain got an observation. This was very well for Cape
Horn, and we thought it a little remarkable that, as we had not had one
unpleasant Sunday during the whole voyage, the only tolerable day here should
be a Sunday. We got time to clear up the steerage and forecastle, and set
things to rights, and to overhaul our wet clothes a little. But this did not
last very long. Between five and six - the sun was then nearly three hours
high - the cry of "All starbowlines ahoy!" summoned our watch on deck; and
immediately all hands were called. A true specimen of Cape Horn was coming
upon us. A great cloud of a dark slate color was driving on us from the south
west; and we did our best to take in sail (for the light sails had been set
during the first part of the day) before we were in the midst of it. We had
got the light sails furled, the courses hauled up, and the topsail
reef-tackles hauled out, and were just mounting the fore-rigging, when the
storm struck us. In an instant the sea, which had been comparatively quiet,
was running higher and higher; and it became almost as dark as night. The hail
and sleet were harder than I had yet felt them; seeming almost to pin us down
to the rigging. We were longer taking in sail than ever before; for the sails
were stiff and wet, the ropes and rigging covered with snow and sleet, and we
ourselves cold and nearly blinded with the violence of the storm. By the time
we had got down upon deck again, the little brig was plunging madly into a
tremendous head sea, which at every drive rushed in through the bow-ports and
over the bows, and buried all the forward part of the vessel. At this instant
the chief mate, who was standing on the top of the windlass, at the foot of
the spenser mast, called out, "Lay out there and furl the jib!" This was no
agreeable or safe duty, yet it must be done. An old Swede, (the best sailor on
board,) who belonged on the forecastle, sprang out upon the bowsprit. Another
one must go: I was near the mate, and sprang forward, threw the downhaul over
the windlass, and jumped between the knight-heads out upon the bowsprit. The
crew stood abaft the windlass and hauled the jib down while we got out upon
the weather side of the jib-boom, our feet on the foot-ropes, holding on by
the spar, the great jib flying off to leeward and slatting so as almost to
throw us off of the boom. For some time we could do nothing but hold on, and
the vessel diving into two huge seas, one after the other, plunged us twice
into the water up to our chins. We hardly knew whether we were on or off; when
coming up, dripping from the water, we were raised high into the air. John
(that was the sailor`s name) thought the boom would go, every moment, and
called out to the mate to keep the vessel off, and haul down the stay-sail;
but the fury of the wind and the breaking of the seas against the bows defied
every attempt to make ourselves heard, and we were obliged to do the best we
could in our situation. Fortunately, no other seas so heavy struck her, and we
succeeded in furling the jib "after a fashion;" and, coming in over the
staysail nettings, were not a little pleased to find that all was snug, and
the watch gone below; for we were soaked through, and it was very cold. The
weather continued nearly the same through the night.
Monday, Nov. 10th. During a part of this day we were hove to, but the
rest of the time were driving on, under close-reefed sails, with a heavy sea,
a strong gale, and frequent squalls of hail and snow.
Tuesday, Nov. 11th. The same.
Wednesday. The same.
Thursday. The same.
We had now got hardened to Cape weather, the vessel was under reduced
sail, and everything secured on deck and below, so that we had little to do
but to steer and to stand our watch. Our clothes were all wet through, and the
only change was from wet to more wet. It was in vain to think of reading or
working below, for we were too tired, the hatchways were closed down, and
everything was wet and uncomfortable, black and dirty, heaving and pitching.
We had only to come below when the watch was out, wring out our wet clothes,
hand them up, and turn in and sleep as soundly as we could, until the watch
was called again. A sailor can sleep anywhere - no sound of wind, water, wood
or iron can keep him awake - and we were always fast asleep when three blows
on the hatchway, and the unwelcome cry of "All starbowlines ahoy! Eight bells
there below! do you hear the news?" (the usual formula of calling the watch,)
roused us up from our berths upon the cold, wet decks. The only time when we
could be said to take any pleasure was at night and morning, when we were
allowed a tin pot full of hot tea, (or, as the sailors significantly call it
"water bewitched,") sweetened with molasses. This, bad as it was, was still
warm and comforting, and, together with our sea biscuit and cold salt beef,
made quite a meal. Yet even this meal was attended with some uncertainty. We
had to go ourselves to the galley and take our kid of beef and tin pots of
tea, and run the risk of losing them before we could get below. Many a kid of
beef have I seen rolling in the scuppers, and the bearer lying at his length
on the decks. I remember an English lad who was always the life of the crew,
but whom we afterwards lost overboard, standing for nearly ten minutes at the
galley, with his pot of tea in his hand, waiting for a chance to get down into
the forecastle; and seeing what he thought was a "smooth spell," started to go
forward. He had just got to the end of the windlass, when a great sea broke
over the bows, and for a moment I saw nothing of him but his head and
shoulders; and at the next instant, being taken off his legs, he was carried
aft with the sea, until her stern lifting up and sending the water forward, he
was left high and dry at the side of the long-boat, still holding on to his
tin pot, which had now nothing in it but salt water. But nothing could ever
daunt him, or overcome, for a moment, his habitual good humor. Regaining his
legs, and shaking his fist at the man at the wheel, he rolled below, saying,
as he passed, "A man`s no sailor, if he can`t take a joke." The ducking was
not the worst of such an affair, for, as there was an allowance of tea, you
could get no more from the galley; and though the sailors would never suffer a
man to go without, but would always turn in a little from their own pots to
full up his, yet this was at best but dividing the loss among all hands.
Something of the same kind befell me a few days after. The cook had just
made for us a mess of hot "scouse" - that is, biscuit pounded fine, salt beef
cut into small pieces, and a few potatoes, boiled up together and seasoned
with pepper. This was a rare treat, and I, being the last at the galley, had
it put in my charge to carry down for the mess. I got along very well as far
as the hatchway, and was just getting down the steps, when a heavy sea,
lifting the stern out of water, and passing forward, dropping it down again,
threw the steps from their place, and I came down into steerage a little
faster than I meant to, with the kid on top of me, and the whole precious mess
scattered over the floor. Whatever your feelings may be, you must make a joke
of everything at sea; and if you were to fall from aloft and be caught in the
belly of a sail, and thus saved from instant death, it would not do to look at
all disturbed, or to make a serious matter of it.
Friday, Nov. 14th. We were now well to the westward of the Cape, and were
changing our course to the northward as much as we dared, since the strong
south-west winds, which prevailed then, carried us in towards Patagonia. At
two, P.M., we saw a sail on our larboard beam, and at four we made it out to
be a large ship steering our course, under single-reefed topsails. We at that
time had shaken the reefs out of our topsails, as the wind was lighter, and
set the main top-gallant sail. As soon as our captain saw what sail she was
under, he set the fore top-gallant sail and flying jib; and the old whaler -
for such, his boats and short sail showed him to be - felt a little ashamed,
and shook the reefs out of his topsails, but could do no more, for he had sent
down his top-gallant masts off the Cape. He ran down for us, and answered our
hail as the whale-ship, New England, of Poughkeepsie, one hundred and twenty
days from New York. Our captain gave our name, and added ninety-two days from
Boston. They then had a little conversation about longitude, in which they
found that they could not agree. The ship fell astern, and continued in sight
during the night. Toward morning, the wind having become light, we crossed our
royal and skysail yards, and at daylight, we were seen under a cloud of sail,
having royals and sky-sails fore and aft. The "spouter," as the sailors call a
whaleman, had sent out his main top-gallant mast and set the sail, and made
signal for us to heave to. About half-past seven their whale boat came
alongside, and Captain Job Terry sprang on board, a man known in every port
and by every vessel in the Pacific ocean. "Don`t you know Job Terry? I thought
everybody knew Job Terry," said a green-hand, who came in the boat, to me,
when I asked him about his captain. He was indeed a singular man. He was six
feet high, wore thick cowhide boots, and brown coat and trowsers, and, except
a sunburnt complexion, had not the slightest appearance of a sailor; yet he
had been forty years in the whale trade, and, as he said himself, had owned
ships, built ships, and sailed ships. His boat`s crew were a pretty raw set,
just set out of the bush, and, as the sailor`s phrase is, "hadn`t got the
hayseed out of their hair." Captain Terry convinced our captain that our
reckoning was a little out, and, having spent the day on board, put off in his
boat at sunset for his ship, which was now six or eight miles astern. He began
a "yarn" when he came aboard, which lasted, with but little intermission, for
four hours. It was all about himself, and the Peruvian government, and the
Dublin frigate, and Lord James Townshend, and President Jackson, and the ship
Ann M`Kim of Baltimore. It would probably never have come to an end, had not a
good breeze sprung up, which sent him off to his own vessel. One of the lads
who came in his boat, a thoroughly countrified-looking fellow, seemed to care
very little about the vessel, rigging, or anything else, but went round
looking at the live stock, and leaned over the pig sty, and said he wished he
was back again tending his father`s pigs.
At eight o`clock we altered our course to the northward, bound for Juan
Fernandez.
This day we saw the last of the albatrosses, which had been our
companions a great part of the time off the Cape. I had been interested in the
bird from descriptions which I had read of it, and was not at all
disappointed. We caught one or two with a baited hook which we floated astern
upon a shingle. Their long, flapping wings, long legs, and large staring eyes,
give them a very peculiar appearance. They look well on the wing; but one of
the finest sights that I have ever seen, was an albatross asleep upon the
water, during a calm, off Cape Horn, when a heavy sea was running. There being
no breeze, the surface of the water was unbroken, but a long, heavy swell was
rolling, and we saw the fellow, all white, directly ahead of us, asleep upon
the waves, with his head under his wing; now rising on the top of a huge
billow, and then falling slowly until he was lost in the hollow between. He
was undisturbed for some time, until the noise of our bows, gradually
approaching, roused him, when, lifting his head, he stared upon us for a
moment, and then spread his wide wings and took his flight.
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